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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known high-end venues. But, tucked near the top among these food titans is a simple salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant achieving such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.